Generative Remove in Lightroom / ACR

Adobe just released an awesome new AI-based feature for your RAW files: “generative remove“. This allows you to do much more advanced cleanup right with much less work. In the past, you could easily remove dust spots or do simple cloning – but even moderately more complicated jobs often required Photoshop. Not only does that add extra work and time, but it forces you to work on rasterized data. That meant you couldn’t update the RAW later without having to redo any cloning work.

You can now tackle much more complex jobs right in the RAW, like removing the branches as shown in this tutorial video.

Workflow for Generative Remove:

  • Activate the remove tool (Q in LR, B in ACR)
  • Set the mode to “remove” (pencil eraser icon)
  • Check “generative AI
  • Brush over the target area to fix.
    • You can brush multiple times to refine results or add areas which aren’t connected.
    • Hold <alt/option> when brushing to remove red target areas (there’s a button, but the keyboard shortcut is much faster).
  • Click “apply” when your red target area is ready.
  • If you don’t like the initial results, click the “variations” arrow for other choices. If none of the three are ideal, click “refresh”. If you need to go back after refreshing, you can use history.


Tips for working with Generative Remove:

  • You may optionally check “object aware” if you want it to help refine your target area. This concept is great, but I find the results are a bit mixed and tend to leave it off. I expect this will keep improving and would be very interested in using it after further enhancement.
  • Set the tool overlay to “auto”
    • the UI for repaired areas will hide when you move the cursor out of the image
    • you’ll see an outline of the selected move pin, and can easily select others as needed for review or deletion (to undo).
  • Click the eyeball icon at bottom left of the remove panel to see before / after.
  • Be sure to combine with the healing brush (band aid icon), sometimes that tool works better for small areas and these tools work great together.
  • Once you apply, there is no way to refine the targeted shape, but you can move it or change the variation. Just delete and redo if your target area isn’t working.
  • Note that generative remove is like generative fill, but without a way for you to provide text input. You’re effectively deleting part of the image and asking the AI to fill it with something it would expect there. This has a couple implications:
    • Margins matter. For example: if you want to delete a license plate, paint it out to the edges. But if you want to simply remove the current license plate number, don’t go to the edges.
    • You can use this like generative fill. If you remove the face of an animal, the AI will likely see the body and generate a new face. I’ve found this works well in some cases, but not others (faces, hands, and feet for people tend to not work well with this initial release).
  • Leave opacity at 100% (anything less will just cause ghosting or poor results)


What is the best “order of operations” for LR / ACR?

The order in which you make some changes matters. For example, the remove tool affects any AI masks you might create later (and existing ones are not updated automatically).

So I recommend you consider the following order for your RAW editing workflow to avoid unexpected results:

  1. Denoise first:
    • This will affect both remove and any AI masks.
    • The impact is minor, so I wouldn’t sweat if you need to remove noise later – but you might want to check and see if you need to update anything else.
  2. Generative Remove:
    1. (at least be aware that it will use data outside your visible crop, and that it can affect lens blur)
  3. You can generally safely proceed with other edits (but remember that the active state of the image can affect some tools like masks)
  4. Use last: point color (it’s very dependent on other edits)

Generative Remove is supported in Lightroom Classic v13.3, LR Desktop v7.3, and Adobe Camera RAW16.3

ASUS PA32UCXR: The best HDR monitor for photographers?

FYI B&H is currently offering $200 off this monitor.

The new HDR display technology is the greatest leap forward in image quality in decades, offer super sunset color, highlight details, and the ability to truly show a wider dynamic range (this is completely unrelated to the old “HDR” software that many of you know, but confusingly has has the same name). And it’s much more widespread that most people know as it is already in the majority of TVs, smart phones, and Apple displays sold in the past few years. We’ve seen rapid updates in software to support it over the past few years, and we’re seeing a growing range of external HDR monitors for editing with a large display.

ASUS has an impressive lineup of HDR monitors. I previously reviewed their budget-friendly PA32UCR-K and in this review want to focus on their new flagship model, the PA32UCXR.

This monitor boasts an impressive set of specs, including:

  • 1,600 nits peak brightness with 2304 local dimming zones.
  • 1,000,000 : 1 contrast ratio
  • deltaE <1%.
  • Support for calibration in the monitor hardware itself. This is ideal for HDR because there is no standard for the typical ICC-based calibration at this time.
  • A colorimeter is built into the monitor itself and can even run automatically on a schedule.
  • It offers 4k resolution, a 32″ display, and a wide gamut (99% Adobe RGB, 97% DCI-P3, 85% Rec 2020)
  • Includes a nice monitor stand which includes easy adjustments for height, tilt, swivel, and even 90 degree rotation to view in portrait orientation.
  • Includes a detachable, wrap-around hood to minimize reflections if needed.
  • Overall, these claims are comparable to the Pro Display XDR, but with 4x the dimming zones and support for both MacOS and Windows at half the price with a stand.


Image quality:

I tested three different ASUS monitors and they have consistently under-promised and over-delivered on brightness. I actually get up to 1,800 nits of brightness with this display. This translates to 3.3 stops of HDR headroom on MacOS and up to 4.6 stops on Windows (due to Windows “SDR content brightness” slider, which allows you to customize display characteristics while in HDR mode). That’s excellent in both cases and class-leading on Windows. Sustained brightness is 1000 nits, which in practice means you’ll almost never have brightness the limitations which are more likely to impact your experience with an OLED display. This monitor offers outstanding HDR capability.

Just as important as that HDR capacity is its accuracy, and this monitor delivers. Unlike most monitors, the ASUS ProArt displays support full calibration for SDR and HDR in the hardware. That is a huge benefit, as there is no standard yet for the sort of ICC profiles we typically create for SDR displays. This particular model also includes a slick built-in colorimeter. It’s motorized and will automatically pop out when needed and hide the colorimeter when not in use. This display shows great color accuracy after calibration in the custom User Modes. I have some questions on the results in the default system modes which may need a firmware update (I have sent details to ASUS). That isn’t much of a concern as the User Modes work great.

It supports a wide range of capability and control for calibration. You can target all common gamuts (with covering including 100% sRGB, 99% Adobe RGB, 97% DCI-P3, and the option to target Rec. 2020). You can target various EOTFs (sRGB, gamma, PQ, HLG, etc). And can set a target white luminance in SDR modes, which is very handy to have as a consistent reference for evaluating images to be printed.

A common question with any mini-LED display is blooming / haloing, which may occur in dark pixels near very bright areas of the image. This display offers minimal haloing and even out-performs the Pro Display XDR when viewing dark shadow areas, likely due to it having four times as many local dimming zones.

Overall, this is a great monitor for both serious SDR and HDR photography.


Other aspects of the monitor:

The monitor comes with a very nice stand. It is easy to setup – you just snap the display right onto it and it secures itself nicely. It looks beautiful and offers simple adjustment. You can easily adjust height, tilt, and swivel. You can even rotate the display between landscape and portrait orientation, though you will need to momentarily tilt the display somewhat to clear the base while rotating it.

It includes a wide range of inputs: Thunderbolt 4, Display Port or HDMI. The Thunderbolt is the ideal option as it can supply 90W to charge your laptop and enables pass-through connections to downstream devices. Its downstream ports include one Thunderbolt 4, one USB-C USB 3.2 , and three USB-A USB 3.2 connections so that you can easily dock a laptop with a single cable.

The on screen display menus offer typical controls and is fairly easy to use, but like most monitors may be a little daunting to users who aren’t experience with customizing their display. Thankfully, there is little that needs to be done. However, switching between SDR and HDR modes will be a new experience for many people, and is something you’ll occasionally want to do to make the most of any HDR monitor if you make prints or use MacOS and want to dim the display for a dark room.

It includes a speaker, but like most monitors is nothing special. Expect to use your laptop or other external speakers if you want great sound.


What could be better?

There are a few software / firmware updates which I believe would enhance the experience of using the ASUS:

  • The last SDR or HDR mode should always be the default when toggling HDR mode. So for example, if I last used User Mode 2 for SDR and HDR P3 for HDR, that’s what I should get when I toggle HDR mode in the operating system. This would be extremely beneficial for MacOS, where you need to disable HDR if you wish to change SDR brightness. That could be achieved via a firmware update, so hopefully we’ll see that in the future.
  • The settings for the User Modes should be clearly shown on the monitor or at least in the ASUS calibration software. It can be a little confusing to confirm what color gamut, EOTF, white point, and brightness setting is in use (the ASUS software will keep clear records for you, so this isn’t a concern if you know where to look).
  • The on-monitor option for calibration (including automatic calibration) should include the User Modes so that you can easily keep them up to date.
  • Firmware updates are rare, but it would be ideal if the process were simpler. Updating requires using a USB drive no larger than 32GB (to use the required FAT32 formatting), inserting it into a specific USB port on the monitor, and doing a 2-button press to start the update. Once you understand those quirks, it isn’t hard, but that will likely confuse some users. Ideally, the ASUS ProArt Calibration software would be used to deliver updates (as it already communicates from the computer to the monitor).

For Windows users, there is nothing else that quite compares to this display. An OLED TV can be excellent (and more affordable), but has some limitations (such as no simple calibration option). MacOS users with a large budget do have the option of the excellent Apple Pro Display XDR.


How does it compare to the Pro Display XDR?

The PA32UCXR has several advantages over the Pro Display XDR:

  • Half the cost of the XDR
  • Built in calibration.
    • I believe calibration of the XDR is entirely optional for most users, but the ASUS offers a complete calibration solution that supports HDR and can be fully automated (to update itself on a schedule).
    • Most Apple users would be able to use the “fine tune” calibration method with a modestly priced colorimeter, but you’d need to spend $8k+ for a spectrophotometer to do a full calibration.
    • We will likely see options for more standard calibration of any display once HDR standards are finalized, but it may take some time before we get to that point.
  • Supports both MacOS and Windows (the Pro Display XDR doesn’t really support Windows). This is quite simply the best mini-LED HDR display available for Windows (unless you’re looking to spend roughly the cost of a new car for a reference monitor).
  • You can connect a single USB cable to the monitor for the display, to power the laptop, and to connect to downstream devices via one spare Thunderbolt or four USB ports. The XDR does not support any downstream devices.
  • Less mini-LED bloom in dark shadows due to 4x the dimming zones.
  • and other secondary benefits:
    • Full calibration. The XDR offers only a partial calibration when using fixed reference / custom presets (full calibration is an option if you have access to an $8k+ spectrophotometer). The accuracy of the XDR is so good that I consider calibration unnecessary for most users.
    • Support for the Rec 2020 color gamut, which shows modest increases in green / cyan saturation (which are printable colors beyond the P3 gamut).
    • Includes a monitor hood.
    • Can accept HDMI or Display port signal inputs (in addition to Thunderbolt).
    • Supports picture-in-picture (or picture-by-picture) display of two simultaneous inputs.


Yet the Apple Pro Display XDR has several advantages over the ASUS (primarily due to its tight integration with MacOS), including:

  • Ability to control SDR brightness while using an HDR mode.
    • You can dim the display while remaining in HDR mode, which is helpful for normal productivity software like MS Word or web browser in a dark environment. The ASUS is around 200 nits for SDR content in HDR mode
    • You can switch the ASUS fairly easily into SDR mode as needed, which always allows brightness control. So you can generally work around this concern – but the XDR experience is completely seamless (and also supports reading web content in a darker room while retaining the ability to show HDR images).
    • I would love to see Apple add a Windows-like slider to control SDR content brightness while in HDR mode. It’s a very helpful feature that would benefit many MacOS users working with 3rd-party displays or TVs.
  • Simple control of SDR brightness via keyboard or control center.
    • This is very convenient with the XDR if you need to adapt to changing ambient lighting or target a specific SDR brightness for print-related work.
    • With the ASUS, you need to switch to an SDR mode to control the brightness (you can do this fairly easily by toggling HDR mode in MacOS settings and then using a shortcut button on the display you set for an SDR user mode you’ve created in the monitor).**
  • Increased HDR headroom.
    • This is a direct consequence of being able to change brightness for the XDR and allows you to get up to 4 stops of headroom vs 3.3.**
  • Superior customer service.
    • Apple generally stands out for its great technical support.
    • My experience with ASUS has been typical of many other computer companies: below expectations. You can get someone one the phone fairly quickly and are likely to get good assistance for issues with billing, returns, etc. No concerns there. However, technical support is a weak spot, and call quality can be quite bad (it was hard to hear some people and there were some random disconnections).
  • and other secondary benefits:
    • 6k vs 4k resolution. The benefits are modest in a 32″ display, though I do prefer the pixel density at 6k for evaluating prints.
    • Simpler setup and control. Everything is done within MacOS (the XDR doesn’t have any buttons at all). The ASUS by comparison has a fairly complex set of options in the on screen display (easy when you understand them and most options can be ignored, but it may be a bit confusing at first).
    • More uniform display, particularly for the edges when viewing very dark and uniform content. In practice, I don’t see this as a huge benefit for most photographers.
    • Always feels like a very premium display, while the ASUS occasionally shows some (relatively insignificant) rough edges. When running calibration (but not nearly so much in regular use), there is haloing around text and the unevenness of the backlight at the edges and top corners is pronounced.
    • See my previous review of the Pro Display XDR for more details.

** Note that neither of these limitations apply to Windows, brightness control is a MacOS-specific limitation. And these limitations could be resolved with a future MacOS update or perhaps some creative solution from display makers like ASUS.


Conclusions: Who should buy this monitor and what are good alternatives?

The ASUS PA32UCXR offers an outstanding HDR experience with 1600+ nits, high color accuracy with integrated colorimeter, excellent image quality, several nice advantages over the older Pro Display XDR, and support for both Mac and PC. While $3k is not cheap, it is half the cost of a Pro Display XDR and offers very competitive performance. It is an excellent value. If you use a PC, this is the best mini-LED you can get.

If you are a MacOS user and have the budget, the integrated controls of the Pro Display XDR and darker SDR brightness in HDR mode are really nice. That’s a niche option at that price point (I personally got mine used with stand for $3k off Craiglist). However, I do think it offers some great capability for MacOS users doing professional work. I particularly appreciate the ability to turn down the brightness at night and still be able to see and edit HDR content.

If these displays are out of your budget, see my review of the more affordable PA32UCR-K as well as my recommended HDR monitors page. And an OLED TV can be a great way to get a gorgeous large HDR display at low cost (consider budgeting a bit more for a professional calibrator with OLED if you need highly accurate color, and note that OLED offers the greatest performance if you work in a dark room and use MS Windows).

If you have a 14-16″ M1 or later MacBook Pro, you already have an outstanding HDR display. Given the cost of external HDR displays, you wish to simply use that internal display for now as as HDR options for external monitors continue to expand.

The aurora in HDR

All the images in this post are "gain maps" and will display as enhanced HDR ("high dynamic range") images if your monitor/browser support it (otherwise you'll see the SDR versions).
==> Your monitor, browser, or OS settings does not support HDR, so you will only see the SDR ("standard dynamic range") version of the images below.
Please see my HDR test page for more info on how to see these enhanced images (view on Chrome with an M1 or M2 MacBook Pro for best results).
==> Unable to determine HDR support (scripts disabled). Your monitor, browser, or OS settings may not support HDR.
Please see my HDR test page to determine if you are seeing HDR (view on Chrome with an M1 or M2 MacBook Pro for best results).

I didn’t have the energy to make a long drive for a great foreground and minimal light pollution, but what a great show last night! Here are a few quick edits of the aurora in HDR.

Looks like a good chance of more aurora tonight and possibly the next couple days (assuming you don’t have cloudy skies). Well worth getting out there! I was shooting with fairly high light pollution less than an hour from Minneapolis (Bortle class 4-5), 3 would be much better and 1-2 is ideal.

I’m still trying to wrap my head around why there was a guy fixing a bike in his driveway at 1 am next to me while I was taking this first image.

How to extract fur detail with luminosity masks

Many photographers use luminosity masks to enhance wildlife images for dodging & burning, sharper details in feathers, to control bright backgrounds, and countless other uses. I don’t often photograph animals, but Darren Hebert was enough to share his lovely image of this moose for a tutorial.

The photo was taken with soft backlight. So we need to work to enhance the fur detail for our subject, and this is a perfect job for luminosity masks. In this tutorial, you’ll see how to bring out that detail using Lumenzia, clean up some overly strong edge lighting with another masking approach, bring more focus to the subject with control of color, and more.

Be sure to also check out my tutorial on AI Denoise, which I reference near the start of the tutorial.


Photographer’s review of the ASUS PA32UCR-K: the best budget HDR monitor?

PA32UCR-KB&H is currently offering an outstanding deal: $200 off the brand new ASUS PA32UCXR monitor, which is a stunning 1600 nits monitor with 2304 local dimming zones (4x the Pro Display XDR), automated calibration, and single cable charging/pass-through. I recently bought one of these to test and it’s amazing. This is the best mini-LED I’ve seen for Windows and it compares well to the Pro Display XDR for Mac users at half the price. I’ll create a full review in the future, but you can see my initial impressions here.

HDR displays are already the norm for TVs, smart phones, and Apple computers. However, options are more limited for external computer monitors. I have several options and general buying advice on my recommended HDR monitors page. ASUS has caught my attention with a large number of great HDR options in their ProArt line, so I recently acquired three of them to test and see how they compare to my Pro Display XDR and MacBook Pro’s XDR display, both of which are outstanding mini-LED displays.

In this post, I want to focus on ASUS PA32UCR-K, which caught my attention for several reasons:

  • Great HDR support:
    • 1000 nits peak brightness for great highlights
    • 576 local dimming zones to ensure good blacks
    • wide gamut (99.5% Adobe RGB, 98% DCI-P3)
    • 4k resolution in a 32″ display
  • Great accuracy:
    • deltaE <1%
    • Support for calibration in the monitor hardware itself. This is ideal for HDR because there is no standard for the typical ICC-based calibration at this time.
    • A colorimeter is included with the monitor (at least in North America).
  • Outstanding value: monitor, colorimeter, and a very nice stand for only $1299.

This monitor is well supported on both MacOS and Windows in my tests.


Image quality:

I tested three different ASUS monitors and they have consistently under-promised and over-delivered on brightness. I actually get around 1600 nits (vs the promised 1000) of brightness with this display. Your results with a specific product or calibration targets may vary slightly, but there’s a good chance you’ll see well above the promised capability. Regardless of actual peak values, the monitor will report 2.6 stops of HDR headroom, which is the level of support you’ll have inherently with Adobe software under MacOS. Windows users can tweak the SDR brightness, which means you should be able edit with up to 4 stops of HDR headroom on this display. It would be ideal if MacOS would offer similar control over SDR brightness for 3rd-party monitors, as this would be a useful way to increase editing capabilities when working in suitably dark rooms.

I found the ASUS calibration software quite easy to use and resulted in excellent HDR image quality. Once calibrated, this display matched the color I see on my Pro Display XDR quite well. The out of the box results were quite good, and improved with use of calibration.

The display has several SDR modes and you can control the brightness right on the monitor (even in MacOS, which does not have a system slider for SDR brightness while in an HDR mode). There are HDR modes for P3 and Rec 2020. And you can create a couple of custom “user modes.” These allow you to choose your gamut, EOTF (such as gamma 2.2), white point (such as 6500K or custom x/y for D65), and brightness (for SDR). This gives you the flexibility to set the monitor for your specific need. The brightness target is ideal if you want to ensure you are evaluating SDR work with a specific SDR brightness, such as for prints.

Display uniformity is reasonable, but not as good as something like a similarly priced SDR-only Eizo. That only makes sense, of course. HDR is a complex technology and you shouldn’t expect to find such a premium feature without either a higher price tag or a tradeoff in something else.

There is one notable caveat with this display, which I’ll refer to as “dark halos.” By this I mean unexpected darkening of the display around bright content – such as when moving the cursor over a dark grey background. It looks as if ASUS erred too much on the side of dimming the backlight to avoid blooming (ie the kind of bright halos typically associated with mini-LED). You are unlikely to see it in photographs, areas of detail, or when using bright background themes. Where you will see it are in dark solid areas, such as the area around text in a dark themed text editor like VS Code, or in the background around an image or the layers panel in Photoshop when using a dark theme. You can evaluate a monitor for it with my tests. I consider it unacceptable under the default settings, but thankfully you can make some simple adjustments which significantly mitigate the issue.

You can make the dark halos a relative non-issue by raising ProArt Palette / Black Level / Backlight on the monitor to around 8-10 (vs the default 0). You may then wish to adjust the black level signal down to 25-35 to help preserve dark contrast after changing the backlight. Most people should be ok with the results after those tweaks, and you can further avoid the problem by using Photoshop in a light theme. And you can completely eliminate the issue by turning off local dimming when working in an SDR mode. See my conclusions below for thoughts on  who might want to consider a more expensive alternative.


Daily use and other considerations:

The monitor stand is surprisingly nice. You can adjust height easily with a single finger, tilt the display a considerable amount, twist it right or left, and even rotate the display a full 90 degrees to switch between landscape and portrait orientation. If you are going to rotate the monitor, you’ll need a little clearance behind the monitor as you have to temporarily tilt it when rotating to avoid the corner of the display hitting the base. It’s no big deal unless you wish to push the display all the way back against a wall.

The monitor includes single cable connection via USB-C (with 80W power for your laptop), a downstream USB 3.1 Type-C port, and three USB 3.1 Type-A  ports. If you cannot or do not wish to use USB-C for the image, the monitor also supports input from HDMI or DisplayPort.

This monitor includes speakers, but like most monitor speakers they are not impressive (if they are included at all). I have always personally preferred using my laptop or Sonos speakers, so this isn’t a concern for me at all.

Conclusions: what should you buy?

The PA32UCR-K offers a great HDR experience and excellent value. The support for hardware calibration is compelling. I would highly recommend this display for those who are on a budget looking for an HDR monitor for photography.

While the residual dark halos should be of no concern for most photographers once you configure the settings mentioned above, this is a more budget-oriented display (in terms of HDR-capable displays) and won’t be for everyone. You may want to buy a more premium alternative if you:

  • currently own an SDR display that costs as much or more than this HDR display
  • offer professional printing
  • tend to care deeply about small details

These may be good signs that you expect higher display uniformity.


No cost alternatives:

If you have or are considering an Apple M1 or later MacBook Pro, you’ll have an outstanding HDR display. It is 14-16″, but that’s a great option and all I had my first year of learning HDR. Aside from that, there’s a good chance you already have a great HDR display in smart phone (both iPhone and Pixel phones are supported in Lightroom mobile) or a great HDR TV (which you can connect to your computer over an HDMI cable). All of these are options you may already own. See my HDR page and e-book for details on how to get started with these alternative options.


Alternatives at a similar price point:

Another budget-friendly option with better performance is the ASUS PA27UCX-K. It’s a 27″ monitor with similar specs, but at a slightly higher price point due to a film designed to avoid halos. It does not show an issue with dark halos (just some trivial blooming around bright highlights which should not concern most photographers).

If you want a budget monitor which prioritizes perfect blacks / no halos over peak brightness / color accuracy, there are some OLED displays in the $1k price range which are worth considering. This includes OLED TVs like the excellent 42″ LG C3 or gaming monitors like the 1000 nit ASUS ROG PG27AQDM. Keep in mind that peak values for OLED are not directly comparable to mini-LED, as OLED tends to only offer those levels when a small percentage of the screen gets that bright. So these are great options to consider if you have controlled lighting or a darker environment (especially under Windows, which lets you dim the display while in HDR mode). These displays may be complicated, costly, or impossible to calibrate for HDR or SDR /print workflows. Many modern TVs ship with fairly high accuracy now, so calibration is less of a concern if you don’t print much. And you can hire a professional to calibrate most TVs (this is not true for monitors, which lack controls in the hardware). Gaming monitors tend to have poor color accuracy (but faster refresh rates) and might be suitable if you are a gamer and simply want something to support HDR. See my HDR monitor recommendations for more considerations if you think an OLED TV or monitor might be right for you.


Upgraded options for those with a larger budget:

The ASUS PA32UCXR is outstanding. I recently purchased that monitor and will review it in depth in the future. My initial impressions are positive. It offers greater HDR headroom, even better wide gamut support and has no such halos. With its 2304 dimming zones, it even offers less blooming than the Pro Display XDR in the deepest shadow values. Or you might consider the older ASUS PA32UCX-PK, which is priced in-between. It’s a former flagship model with 1152 zones (inventory may be limited and I have not tested this model).

If you use MacOS, want the simplest possible experience or control over SDR brightness to increase HDR headroom up to 4 stops, and have a large budget – the Pro Display XDR is probably the best choice for you. It’s pricey, but it is truly excellent.


I’d like to thank ASUS for their support to help make these reviews possible. While I’ve been happy with my Pro Display XDR, it’s clearly priced out of reach for most people who don’t make a living from photography. After seeing several ASUS monitors at the latest Consumer Electronics Show, I reached out to them asking to test some models I thought would be ideal for photography and they offered to help me acquire some units. They’ve also been helpful in answering questions so I could determine the best options to review (their product range is quite extensive).

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. See my ethics statement for more information. When you purchase through such links, you pay the same price and help support the content on this site.

Greg Benz Photography