Yoga Aura – the best HDR PC laptop?

The MacBook Pro has had an outstanding HDR display for nearly five years. There is simply no PC laptop on the market which matches its performance for HDR photography, but some new options from Lenovo are finally getting close. In this review, we’ll look at how well it meets the needs of photographers and how it compares to the MacBook Pro.

The 2025 Lenovo 2-in-1 Aura Edition offers:

  • A DisplayHDR True Black 1000 certified OLED monitor
    • Up to 1200 nits peak
    • 14″ or 16″ size
    • Delta e < 1 for great accuracy out of the box
    • Touch screen with a completely flexible hinge lets you use it like a tablet (similar to Surface Pro) or fold it into a tent shape to show movies with a very narrow footprint.
  • Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 256V or 258V CPU
  • up to 32GB RAM
  • up to 1TB SSD
  • WiFi 7
  • BlueTooth 5.4

 

 

HDR display

Display HDR True Black 1000 offers a stunning level of support for HDR photography, and Lenovo is the first company to be certified for this level of performance. I saw the Lenovo 2 in 1 Aura Edition Laptop a couple weeks ago at a conference and was immediately impressed. I ordered one immediately to replace my 600 nits OLED PC laptop. Put simply, this is a stunning upgrade and a truly gorgeous display unlike any other PC laptop I have ever seen (at least with an Intel chip, the SnapDragon version of this laptop caught my attention last year – but Adobe does not support Photoshop plugins under the ARM version of Windows).

The Yoga Aura realistically offers up to 3.5 stops of HDR headroom, very good color accuracy, and a great HDR experience. This is the first HDR PC laptop I can recommend without hesitation, this is a great OLED monitor. If you have a strong preference for Windows and want HDR support in the laptop display itself, this is a very unique and compelling product.

There are options to upgrade the display to a higher (4K) resolution, DO NOT choose the upgraded display. The base resolution is already excellent and the premiums display is actually a downgrade as it offers less HDR capability.

To use the Aura for HDR, it is important that you make a couple of changes in Windows System Settings / Display:

  • Enable HDR mode. This is required for HDR support.
  • In the options available by clicking > next to the HDR toggle, slide the “HDR content brightness” to the far right (100). This ensures HDR highlights won’t clip when viewing content (this is a confusing control and I would prefer to see Windows improved to eliminate it).
  • See my HDR setup and troubleshooting guide if you have external monitors or other questions.

 

How does it compare to the XDR display in the M4 MacBook Pro (MBP)?

  • The Aura offers perfect blacks (as it uses an OLED display).
    • This is nice for watching movies in a dark room, but the benefit is fairly modest for photography.
    • There is a very clear difference under extreme conditions (deep shadow detail when viewing in a dark room), but this isn’t applicable for most real edits.
    • The highly reflective glossy display on the Aura further limits your ability to appreciate the deep blacks unless the room is very dark.
  •  The MacBook Pro (which uses a mini-LED display) offers up to 1600 nits peak vs 1200 for the Aura.
    • In practical terms, this means you’ll see about an extra 0.5 stops of HDR headroom.
    • This is very nice to have, but the Aura does very well.
  • MBP offers more accurate display for very bright HDR content, as it almost always avoids the need to use ABL (automatic brightness limiter):
    • Full screen: MBP offers 1000 nits vs 600 nits for the Aura.
    • 50% window: Aura supports 975 nits
    • Realistically, either can handle a wide range of HDR content under controlled lighting. Where the MBP pulls ahead is when using the display in bright ambient light, which isn’t ideal for editing even if the MBP offers a more accurate display in that scenario.
  • MBP can be more easily used for productivity in bright ambient light
    • The optional nano-texture coating on the MBP significantly reduces reflections for a much more readable display in bright surroundings. If you turn off the display outside, you’ll see a matte black screen with zero reflections.
    • If you similarly turn off the Aura display outside, it’s like looking in a mirror. The reflections are very notable.
    • MBP offers up to 1000 nits SDR (600 via manual controls, 1000 when variable brightness at max and bright ambient light)
    • Aura offers 450 nits SDR
  • MBP is easier to use for HDR thanks to MacOS
    • The MBP supports HDR with default settings. There is nothing you need to do, everything just works and looks amazing by default – whether you wish to edit for HDR, print, or do productivity work.
    • To use HDR in the Aura, you must enable HDR mode in Windows System Settings / Display. You must further go into the HDR sub-section and move the “HDR content brightness” to the right (100) in order to avoid some highlight clipping which you will otherwise see under the default settings.

Overall, this gives the MBP a modest but clear edge over the Aura under controlled lighting. Many photographers probably wouldn’t notice the difference if you didn’t put them side by side in that scenario. But in bright ambient or outdoor conditions, the MBP has a substantial advantage over the Aura. The optional ($150) nano-texture coating is a game changer if you travel with the laptop or otherwise use in bright conditions.

 

Performance for Photography

The Aura offers a few configurations based on display size, with the 16″ offering the highest performance options. The current lineup choices are:

  • 14″ with Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 256V with 16GB RAM (do not buy this)
  • 14″ with upgraded Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 258V Processor and 32GB RAM (for $80, everyone should get this upgrade)
  • 16″ with Intel® Core™ Ultra 9 185H 32GB RAM (the GPU may be upgraded for $200, which is probably not high impact unless you do video as well)

The 14″ comes with a 512GB hard drive and an optional 1TB upgrade (whereas only the 1TB is offered on the 16″). The upgraded processor and hard drive are a no brainer on the 14″, and the upgraded GPU on the 16″ probably isn’t worth it for more users. So you’re probably looking at $1550 for the 14″ or $1700 for a 16″ with a CPU upgrade from 8 to 12 cores to support better multi-tasking. This makes the 16″ the best choice if you do not care about weight. However, the 14″ is 3 lbs vs 5 for the 16″, so it isn’t a trivial difference.

The 14″ scores a very respectable 65.0 weighted score in my G-Bench tests. That’s slightly slower than the 57 in an M1 Max and about half the speed of the 34 in an M4 Max. However, those are the highest level CPU upgrades offered by Apple in laptops which cost roughly $8,000. I do not have performance data for Apple’s entry-level M3 or M4, but I would expect the least capable MBP outperform the Aura – but at a level where the Aura is still competitive.

Black Magic Disk Speed shows 3400 MB/s write and 3800 MB/s read speeds. This isn’t nearly as fast as the M4 MBP (8700 and 5300), but is still incredibly fast. Very few people would notice the difference, this is a very fast internal drive. And if you need external storage, the TB4 ports will support very high speeds.

 

Battery life and fans

I’ve been quite impressed with the battery life on this laptop. I had expected it would lag significantly behind the MBP because it has an Intel rather than ARM processor. Not only did I find that not to be the case, but it actually outperformed the MBP in my (limited) testing. I charged both to 100%, set the display to roughly the same brightness, and then had them play the same YouTube HDR video for a couple hours and a run a series of the same tests in Photoshop. At the end of my tests, the MBP was down to 22% while the Lenovo was 34%. While hardly scientific and your results will vary based on usage, I believe the results at least indicate the battery life on the Aura is generally pretty good. As a photographer, I’ve never seen battery performance on the MBP come close to the all day stats you see for simple tasks like watching video or web browsing, and you’ll similarly find the Aura does well but is going to need an outlet to make it through a full day.

I was rather surprised at the Aura outlasting the MBP for a couple of reasons. The Intel processor was one concern (vs the efficiency of ARM), and the other was heat given my experience with the fans. Unfortunately, the fans run quite often on the Aura on moderate loads. They aren’t terrible, but it stands out in comparison to the MBP, where you almost never hear the fans in normal use. When running my G-Bench test, I measured 22 dB ambient noise most of the time (which is to say zero noise, that’s just the ambient for the room). The fans briefly hit 27 dB, giving an average reading of 23 dB for the entire test. On the other hand, the Yoga was at 38-41 dB most of the time, for an overall average of 37 dB. You are going to hear this laptop in quiet environments.

I initially thought the fans themselves would draw quite a bit of power and be a concern, but these cooling systems seem quite different. The Aura case does not conduct much heat and it relies heavily on the fans to remove heat. The MBP’s case actually is much warmer to the touch and appears to be a significant source of passive cooling that helps minimize fans. This means the Aura is more comfortable sitting directly on your lap, but the hotter exterior of the MBP isn’t a serious concern.

 

Other features (ports, speakers, etc)

The Aura is a well rounded machine which generally compares very well with the MBP in other areas:

  • The Aura offers a touch screen and highly flexible display hinge.
    • You can directly tap, type, and swipe on the screen like a Surface Pro tablet. You can purchase a stylus to help use it as a tablet, which I find very interesting and intend to get in the near future.
    • When folded like a tablet, the keys are disabled. You can just use a stylus or your fingers and don’t need to worry about accidental key presses – even though the keys will be exposed on the bottom.
    • You can also fold it into a tented shape to use for showing movies while taking less horizontal space or to make it easier to use as a tablet without a keyboard under your hands.
    • These capabilities are probably not critically important to most photographers, but they are unique to the Aura and will certainly appeal to some users.
  • Connectivity:
    • MBP offers 3 Thunderbolt 4 ports. Lenovo offers 2 Thunderbolt 4 ports,  1 very high speed USB-C (USB4) port, and a USB-A.
    • MBP offers an integrated SD card reader and HDMI port. The Aura lacks these, but you can support these via cheap dongles.
    • Both offer a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
    • Both offer fingerprint readers (to set up the Aura go to Windows settings / accounts / sign-in options / fingerprint recognition). The Aura can also use its camera to log in via face detection.
    • Both offer great wireless connectivity, with the Aura being slightly better for the future (WiFi 7 and BlueTooth 5.4 vs WiFe 6e and BlueTooth 5.4).
  • The speakers on the Aura are excellent and I find compare well with audio experience the MBP.
  • Both have attractive designs that look and feel like high quality computers. However, fingerprints are rather obvious on the Yoga (but you rarely see them on the MBP).
  • The 14″ Aura is half a pound lighter than the MBP, while the 16″ Aura is slightly heavier than the corresponding MBP.
  • The keyboard and trackpad are great on both (I personally find the extra keys on the right side of the Aura keyboard a bit awkward, but it’s probably just a matter of getting used to it so that I don’t alter performance or white balance by accident when trying to click the backspace or enter keys).

 

Conclusions:

The Aura is an excellent laptop for HDR and the first PC laptop which has truly impressed me for HDR. The display is incredible, and I was very happy with performance and battery life for a more friendly laptop. The fan noise is unfortunate, but not a deal breaker. The biggest limitation are the limitations for upgrading to premium options which might appeal to those with larger budgets.

If you need or strongly prefer a Windows laptop for HDR photography, it’s a great option. If you are open to MacOS and have a moderate budget, the MBP is a better option for most photographers given overall performance, premium options (especially the anti-glare screen), lack of fan noise, and the simpler HDR experience offered under MacOS vs Windows.

If you are open to either operating system, this is probably a good way to consider your options:

  • If you are seeking a budget 14″ display, the entry-level MBP is much closer in price and offers excellent value.
    • Both are great options here, but the 14″ Aura is still lower cost and lower weight.
    • If you’re willing to spend a little more, the nano-texture display on the MBP makes it a clearly better laptop for working in brighter environments.
  • If you are seeking a budget-oriented 16″ laptop for HDR, the 16″ Aura clearly offers the best price and value. The Aura is $1,000 less than the cheapest 16″ MBP with 1TB SSD.
  • If you have a budget for $2000-5000, MBP offers a wide range of upgrades which put it in a completely different class of computer than the top-tier Aura. You may select the following upgrades:
    • nano-texture display (highly recommended)
    • Much more powerful CPUs / GPUs
    • Up to 8TB SSD (larger is nice, but this is the one option you can add externally and save money)
    • Up to 128GB RAM (48-64GB recommended)
    • (see my M4 MBP review for details on these options)

The Lenovo 2-in-1 Aura Edition is a very exciting development as it helps bring excellent HDR support to a wider audience. It will be very interesting to see when other PC laptop manufacturers offer similarly premium HDR displays, if higher spec options are offered to compete with the most premium MBPs, and how support for SnapDragon / WinARM evolves over the coming years.

 

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. See my ethics statement for more information. When you purchase through such links, you pay the same price and help support the content on this site.

Photoshop now natively supports AVIF for 50% smaller files than JPG

Note: the images in this post are all AVIF (uploaded normally through the WordPress media library).

JPG has been the most popular image format for over 30 years, but it’s days are numbered. There have been several attempts over the years to replace it, but none have broadly succeeded because they either offered too little benefit or didn’t get enough support from browsers and other critical support. We finally have a file format which seems very likely to start replacing in the coming years: AVIF (AV1 Image File Format). And Photoshop v26.8 beta just added support for it (as well as JXL).

 

AVIF is a vastly better image format and it’s supported by every modern web browser. It offers the following benefits over JPG:

  • Vastly smaller files (averaging about 50% smaller in my testing, but 20-80% is typical depending on the image). This size reduction allows faster uploads, faster websites (potentially improving search engine rankings), reduced bandwidth costs, improved battery life on phones and laptops, etc.
  • Improved image quality. AVIF supports supports up to 12-bit depth (vs 8 for JPG). That eliminates the risk of banding in smooth gradients like skies. It also means your images could survive a little bit more editing, which makes AVIF rather handy if you send your images to a lab to be printed (the file size reduction vs a 16-bit TIF is astronomical). And beyond bit-depth, artifacts in AVIF tend to be less obvious than in a JPG.
  • Transparency. JPG doesn’t support it and PNG files are quite large. So this is great for product images, etc on websites.
  • Native support for HDR. While gain maps are critical to ensure high-quality adaptation even with native HDR encoding, this helps further reduce file size (a gain map may be compressed more aggressively, or can be eliminated in cases where file size is more important than ensuring high quality across all screens). See here for more information on why gain maps are important for quality (even in 10+ bit-depth formats).
  • Animation. AVIF offers vastly higher image quality than GIF, and in fact is a video standard at its core (AVIF photos are really just a single frame AV1 video).

 

How does AVIF compare to JPG, JXL, webP, and PNG?

There are several notable alternatives to JPG, how do they compare for photography?

First, a quick note that all the formats below support “gain maps” for HDR. There is a common mis-perception that gain maps are just a hack to allow HDR within the 8-bit limits of JPG. While they have that benefit, they serve a much more important purpose: they ensure that an HDR image looks great on any display (without it, less capable displays or screens in outdoor light will often show a significantly degraded result and will vary from one browser to the next). However, native support for HDR is very helpful as it allows for encoding smaller gain maps as well as the option to skip the gain map when file size is much more important than image quality.

JPG:

  • Pros:
    • The most widely supported image format for the web (100% compatible).
    • Offers a safe and compatible way to share hiqh-quality HDR today (when using a gain map). This is likely to be replaced by AVIF gain maps in the future as support grows, but is very helpful in 2025.
    • Accepted by all social media sites for uploads.
    • Widely supported for smart phones / texting
  • Cons:
    • Files are much larger than newer alternatives
    • Limited quality due to 8-bit depth and artifacts
    • no support for transparency

AVIF:

  • Pros:
    • ~50% smaller than JPG (vastly faster page loads, better search ranking, less data use).
    • 10 and 12-bit support and less distracting artifacts offer much higher quality than JPG.
    • Supports HDR gain maps
    • Supports HDR natively
      • This gives the option to encode HDR at the smallest possible size.
      • (a gain map always offers vastly higher quality, but this gives the option to compress a gain map even further or to eliminate the map if file size is more important than image quality)
    • support for transparency.
    • Widely supported on the web (by all modern browsers).
    • Has excellent support in Adobe software. AVIF is royalty free and has great momentum, so support is very likely to expand further elsewhere.
    • Supports CICP encoding to help reduce file size vs embedding an ICC profile.
  • Cons:
    • Support is excellent in modern browsers, but there are enough outdated browsers that social media support is limited at this time.
      • Use of very old devices or slow updates means compatibility is ~95% today (but steadily increasing). This is the key reason its use is limited. It would be reasonable to use now in many cases, and you can set your website to serve a JPG fallback image if you want to ensure vastly faster page loads while ensuring 100% compatibility for all devices.
      • Affinity can import but not yet export, Capture One has no support yet, GIMP support is available (if you install libheif or libavif).
    • Not an ideal option for large prints (limited resolution, tiling can expand those limits but risks potential quality issues).
    • 12-bits is great for a final image, but is not ideal for subsequent editing.

JXL (aka JPEG XL):

  • Pros:
    • For web use, has benefits generally similar to AVIF (~50% smaller than JPG, high bit depth support, transparency, supports HDR and gain maps, well supported by Adobe)
    • Additionally offers the ability to re-compress existing JPG to JXL with no further loss of image quality, making it very easy to migrate any website to much smaller images.
    • Ideal for printing / subsequent editing due to nearly unlimited resolution and 32-bit support.
    • Has excellent support in Adobe software (including 8-32bit exports from PS v26.8 beta). JXL is royalty free and has great momentum, so support is very likely to expand further elsewhere.
    • Supports encoding color data in the code stream to help reduce file size vs embedding a full ICC profile.
  • Cons:
    • Limited support in web browsers (~14%). Chrome had support under a developer flag and removed it. If Google revisits that decision, JXL could become a very exciting option several years down the road (close to 80% of web traffic is based on Chrome or derivative browsers).

HEIF (HEIC):

  • Pros:
    • For web use, has benefits similar to AVIF (though may not compress quite as well)
    • Well supported on Apple devices (native capture format on iPhones)
    • Supports higher resolution than AVIF without tiling, so it could be often used for print-quality images.
    • Supports color encoding as CICP to save space vs an embedded ICC profile.
  • Cons:
    • Limited support in web browsers (~14%). Due to royalty considerations, it seems unlikely support will expand significantly anytime soon.
    • Lacks 32-bit support offered by JXL for subsequent editing (16-bit support is theoretically pretty good, but actual support for HEIF is often limited to 12-bits).

webP:

  • Pros:
    • ~25% smaller than JPG
    • Widely supported on the web (by all modern browsers).
    • Faster encode speed than AVIF, which is attractive for websites processing very large numbers of images.
  • Cons:
    • Like JPG, it is limited to 8-bit depth and lacks support for transparency.
    • No support for HDR (either natively or with a gain map).
    • Like AVIF, some old browsers lack support (webP support is ~96%).

PNG:

  • Pros: Widely supported as a way to share images with transparency
  • Cons: Very large files (PNG is likely to get replaced by AVIF).

 

How to create AVIF:

There are several tools which support exporting photos as AVIF:

  • Photoshop v26.8 beta
  • Web Sharp Pro v6.4 offers an AVIF option when using this new version of Photoshop.
  • Lightroom (Classic, cloud, mobile)
  • Adobe Camera RAW (tutorial)

 

Below are two copies of the same 1000 x 667 pixel image. The first is a 192 KB JPG, and the second is a similar AVIF which is only 96KB (50% smaller, but slightly higher quality!)

 

Where can you view AVIF?:

AVIF is well supported for viewing in:

  • all modern web browsers (see “can I use” for the latest stats for old browsers).
  • Apple Photos / Finder (iOS 16+ and macOS 13+)
  • Android and Google Photos (Android 12+)

 

AVIF is NOT supported in:

  • Apple iMessage (as of iOS 18, comes through as an icon you cannot view or save)

 

Note: please comment below on any software you feel is critical to add to this supported / not supported list.

 

Which social sites supports AVIF?

As social media sites emphasize support for a wide range of old devices, old apps, old browsers, and old operating systems; it is not surprising that support for a new file will be slow to arrive on social media. Most sites will not accept AVIF uploads, and the ones that do are generally going to transcode the upload to JPG to ensure support on legacy devices (ie it won’t improve the quality of what other see currently, but it will let you upload from a smaller source).

Sites that allow AVIF uploads:

  • Bluesky
  • Discord
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Threads

Sites that do not yet support AVIF (as of 05-26-24): 500px, Flickr, Pinterest, Reddit, SmugMug, Twitter, and WhatsApp.

 

Should you share AVIF now?:

You can use AVIF now on your own website if you are either

  • unconcerned about a small number of viewers (mostly with very old devices) not having support
    • Note that the gaps in support are fairly niche and probably not terribly important for most photography sites:
      • 1.3% of browsing involved old iOS (mostly iPhones older than iPhone 8, as they can’t run iOS16). This is probably the only
      • 0.5% Internet Explorer (mostly people running something older than Windows 10)
      • 0.4% old Chrome, , QQ (Chinese browser, 0.2%)
  • willing to batch export both AVIF and JPG and use the script below (which will offer the speed benefit of AVIF to 95% of your audience and ensure the other 5% can still safely see JPG).

However, you should probably otherwise wait a little bit longer if:

  • you prefer simplicity of administering your site over speed / ranking
  • you share everything through social media
  • note yet supported for uploading to a given social media site
  • texting via iMessage.
  • sharing HDR until AVIF gain maps are better supported (a JPG gain map will produce much better quality overall than an AVIF without a gain map due to superior adaptation to all displays). It’s great that we have such widespread support in browsers and Adobe software, but the remaining gaps are still a reason to move slowly at this time.

So we are still early for many use cases, but AVIF is steadily moving towards critical mass and offers extremely compelling benefits over JPG. I encourage you to test it for yourself, try uploading AVIF to see where it works, and send a polite request for support to any services you use which do not yet accept AVIF uploads.

 

How to enable JPG fallback for any AVIF image on your website:

If you’d like to share AVIF now to help offer vastly faster page load times but also wish to ensure that even the ~5% of viewers who lack support still see your images, you can easily automate that. Just batch export both AVIF and JPG versions of your image using the same name, insert the AVIF normally on your site, and use the following script to have the page automatically replace all <img> elements using an AVIF with <picture> elements which use either AVIF where possible but fallback to JPG if not supported.

function replaceAvifImagesWithPicture() {
// Replace <img src=”something.avif”> with <picture> element that has both AVIF and JPG sources
constlogToConsole=true;
if (logToConsole) console.log(‘replaceAvifImagesWithPicture()’);
constimages=document.querySelectorAll(‘img[src$=”.avif”]’);
if (logToConsole) console.log(`Found ${images.length} AVIF images to replace`);
images.forEach((img) => {
constavifSrc=img.src;
if (logToConsole) console.log(`Replacing ${avifSrc} with <picture> element`);
constjpgSrc=avifSrc.replace(/\.avif$/, ‘.jpg’);
constpicture=document.createElement(‘picture’);
// Create and append the AVIF source element
constsourceAvif=document.createElement(‘source’);
sourceAvif.type=’image/avif’;
sourceAvif.srcset=avifSrc;
picture.appendChild(sourceAvif);
// Create and append the fallback image element (JPG)
constsourceJpg=document.createElement(‘source’);
sourceJpg.type=’image/jpeg’;
sourceJpg.srcset=jpgSrc;
picture.appendChild(sourceJpg);
// Create and append the fallback img element
constimgFallback=document.createElement(‘img’);
imgFallback.src=jpgSrc; // Default to JPG if neither source is supported
imgFallback.alt=img.alt||”;
imgFallback.width=img.width;
imgFallback.height=img.height;
if (img.className) imgFallback.className=img.className;
picture.appendChild(imgFallback);
img.replaceWith(picture);
});
}
document.addEventListener(‘DOMContentLoaded’, replaceAvifImagesWithPicture); // Run on DOM load

How to use your Apple iPad as an HDR monitor

If you have an XDR-branded iPad (such as the M4 iPad Pro), you may use it as an HDR monitor for your Mac. And you can do this even if you do not have any other HDR display. So this may be a nice option for either adding an extra HDR display, or for getting started with HDR using a display you already own (using your big screen TV over HDMI is yet another option).

 

How to set up your iPad as an HDR monitor for your Mac:

On the iPad: go to Settings / Display & Brightness / Advanced and enable “reference mode”.

  • This is like using the HDR Video preset for XDR on your computer (ie limits peak HDR to 1000 nits), it will also disable options like true tone and night shift (as those make color less accurate).
  • In this reference mode, the iPad will offer 3.3 stops of headroom (fixed 100 nits SDR and peak 1000 nits HDR – not the full 1600 nits peak, as that is not the maximum sustained brightness and therefore not suitable for reference viewing).

 

In MacOS: go to Settings / Display:

  • click the “+” dropdown near the top-right and choose to mirror or extend to your iPad.
  • If you are mirroring, you can click stop mirroring to switch to an extended display. Or if you are extended, you may click the “use as” dropdown and choose the option to start mirroring.
  • If you wish to use the iPad as the primary HDR display (which is ideal if your monitor is SDR or limited HDR) and are mirroring, be sure to select the monitor and set the “optimize for” to the iPad. Note that you won’t have any options for the display resolution and are likely to see black bars on the left and right of your monitor (given the aspect ratio of an iPad).
  • Note that when connected, the MacOS view on the iPad is shown via the “continuity” app. You may switch to another app on the iPad and then back as desired.

 

 

If you wish to disconnect, you may click on the iPad icon and then click “disconnect“.

 

One potential use case for a secondary monitor is to show an image you’re editing on the main window and a reference photo on the other. For example, you may wish to show your HDR as a reference on the iPad while editing an SDR virtual copy on your laptop display.

To edit with a reference photo in Lightroom Classic:

  • Connect the iPad as an extended display.
  • In LRC, go to the develop module and click the “2” icon on the far left just above the film strip. This will show another window on the other display. You may <option>-click 2 to show it as full screen.
  • In the secondary window, click on “loupe” at the top (which may be hidden depending on prior use).
  • In the Develop module, view the image you wish to see in the secondary window and then click <cmd>-<option>-<return> to lock that image in the secondary display (you may also use the mouse to click “normal” vs “locked” at top-right of the secondary display, it’s just a bit more work if you don’t recall the keyboard shortcut).
  • Now select the image you wish to edit in the Develop module (the other window won’t change as it is “locked”).

Which colorspace should you use for photography?

There is often confusion around the best colorspace to use for photography. In this video, we’ll go into great detail to help compare the key options and why you might pick one or another. You’ll also learn how colorspace affects detail and contrast (not just the vibrance of your color).

 

We’ll get into the details and rationale below, but let’s start with the conclusions to make things clear (or for those who just want the bottom line).

Photographers should choose colorspaces as follows:

  • Layered, 16/32-bit working files in Photoshop:
    • Use Rec2020 or ProPhoto. Either is great (I recommend Rec2020 if you can easily choose it). See below for nuances of the differences.
    • Do not use a smaller gamut unless trying to match gamma for an existing project (may be helpful for copying layers with masks). Reducing gamut in the ultimate source eliminates colors which often show benefits on a monitor or print. You can safely export a flat copy in a smaller gamut later.
  • Exporting to the web:
    • P3 is ideal as long as long as the profile is not be stripped from the image during upload (which would make the image look desaturated). Browsers support P3 well.
    • In the future (with 10-bit+ formats like AVIF and wider gamut monitors), Rec2020 will be a great choice. It should not be used with 8-bit formats like JPG, due to risk of banding.
    • sRGB is safe when you know the profile will be stripped or are unsure. (Note: as we start to transition away from JPG in about a year with newer format like AVIF, hopefully this issue with stripped profiles goes away).
    • When you convert color, do it on a flattened copy – not with layers (see “This will wreck your color in Photoshop” for a demo).

You do not have to make any colorspace decisions while shooting or editing RAW. A RAW image from your camera has no colorspace (when you pick a colorspace in your camera, it will affect the preview and histo on the camera, but does not limit your editing options). The only time you really need to consider colorspace with LR / ACR is when you export that RAW image or open it in Photoshop (as it will be in a defined colorspace once you leave the RAW environment). Note that while in the RAW editing environment, ACR will use the colorspace you select below the image and LR will always work with linear ProPhoto (aka “Melissa RGB”) in SDR mode and linear Rec2020 in HDR mode.

 

 

What matters when considering colorspace?:

The key factors to consider in selecting a colorspace are:

  • Will it retain all the color from your original image / edit?
    • If you use a smaller gamut, the image will not be as vivid for some subjects.
    • A more significant issue is clipping colorful gradients (sunset, colorful light on a wall, etc). When this occurs, there is a loss of detail and the image may appear as if it has artifacts.
  • Will colors be clipped on a monitor or print?
    • This is kind of the same question, but more pragmatic.
    • For example, if you do not expect to print green/cyan/blue gradients (such as the ocean by a sandy beach), you may have less need for colors beyond P3 or Rec2020.
    • If you want to protect for future use, then Rec2020 for monitors and a very wide gamut print such as Lumachrome are ideal targets.
    • It is possible we’ll get beyond those in the future, but not very likely and the incremental value would be very low. Natural colors are already well covered, but a very vibrant artificial light might show a benefit. We’re mostly in the realm of animated movies when considering these colors.
  • Will the the colorspace be supported online?
    • Browser support is very good for images tagged with sRGB, P3 and Rec2020.
    • (note Firefox may over-saturated untagged images under default settings, but nothing is really safe in that scenario as you can’t even share sRGB to avoid the issue – the only solution is for websites to stop stripping profiles).
    • Browser support is very limited or missing for Adobe and ProPhoto RGB.
  • Is there a risk of banding at low bit depth?
    • When you use a wide gamut, your bits are spread out over a larger space. So using a wide gamut space increases risk of banding with wider gamuts.
    • Practically speaking, you should avoid Rec2020 or ProPhoto when the image is encoded at 8-bit. But no issue using them at higher bit depths (including 10-bit for Rec2020).
  • Are you editing for SDR or HDR?
    • There are several colorspaces which are supported in SDR, but not HDR. For example, Adobe RGB and ProPhoto RGB are not well supported for HDR.
    • sRGB, P3, and Rec2020 are well supported in both.
  • Will the EOTF (“gamma”) affect your workflow or results?
    • When converting a flat image with sufficient bit depth, the EOTF (“gamma”) should not affect results. Color management can safely convert an image from one gamma to another with a visually identical result, as long as you have sufficient bit depth.
    • What you should avoid is converting color space after an image has been downgraded to 8-bits, as that creates risk of banding. This is otherwise not an issue (you’d have to do numerous conversions at higher bit depth to cause problems).
    • The “gamma” affects several aspects of Photoshop, including curves, opacity, and layer masks. You should not convert images which are not flat. If you copy a layer with opacity (such as a subject you cut out), you may find the edges no longer look correct if the gamma changed.
    • See “This will wreck your color in Photoshop” for a demo of these concerns.
    • Note that these considerations for EOTF generally apply for white point (ie not a concern to convert a high quality source).

 

How do common colorspaces differ?:

Before we discuss specific colorspaces, let’s define a few terms associated with them:

  • The “primaries” (ie a 2-dimensional “gamut”) define the maximum red, green, and blue (in a matrix-based profile, which would apply to any working RGB space).
  • “lightness” (aka value or luminance) is also part of a colorspace, but we have typically ignored it in SDR as working spaces always include both black and white. However, this overlooks the fact that the maximum lightness of a given color often differs from one colorspace to another, even if the primaries are similar.
  • The “color volume” is a 3-dimensional representation of all possible values for a colorspace. We’ve typically focused on the primaries in evaluating SDR, but it matters and the impact of lightness / color volume and have especially important in HDR.
  • The “EOTF” (“electro-optical transfer function”) determines how quickly values ramp from black to maximum. This is commonly referred to as “gamma”, but there are ETOFs which are not gamma curves (including sRGB). EOTF doesn’t matter that much in this conversation, but is noted where relevant.
  • The “white point” determines the color of white. Color management accounts for different white points (through chromatic adaptation), and the white point similarly doesn’t matter much for this conversation.

 

The most common colorspaces typically considered for photography include:

  • sRGB
    • This is the smallest gamut.
    • Same primaries as rec709.
    • The sRGB EOTF is close to gamma 2.2 (rec709 uses BT.1886 and is closer to gamma 2.4)
  • Adobe RGB
    • Wider gamut than sRGB, with the benefit more optimized for printing relative to P3
  • P3 RGB
    • Wider gamut than sRGB, with the benefit more optimized for monitors than Adobe RGB
    • Most modern monitors use P3 as a design target
  • Rec2020
    • Wider gamut than P3.
    • Fully includes all colors available in sRGB, Adobe RGB and P3.
    • Given the large range, it is not suitable for 8-bit encoding due to some risk of banding.
    • The gamma is typically a higher-precision version of rec709, though the ICC-2020.icu profile that comes with MacOS appears to be close to sRGB (ie close to gamma 2.2)
    • Rec2020 is the ultimate target for HDR and monitors. It is the ideal target, but most monitors today don’t go much past P3. Some laser projectors and RGB mini-LED displays come fairly close to covering it.
  • ProPhoto RGB
    • Wider than Rec2020, so it fully encompasses all of the above. It also exceeds human vision and roughly 13% of are “imaginary” colors which are not visible to humans.
    • Given the large range, it is not suitable for 8-bit encoding due to significant risk of banding.
    • Gamma 1.8

Note that ProPhoto RGB has a D50 white point, while D65 is typically used for sRGB, P3, Adobe RGB, and Rec2020. This really doesn’t matter here as color management accounts for this. Not convinced? Try opening a flattened 16-bit sRGB TIF and then convert it to ProPhoto – it will look the same (even though you’ve just changed both white point and ETOF, and the primaries aren’t a problem in this example since you’ve moved to a larger space).

In the world of movies / CG, there are some additional ACES options you may encounter. The AP0 primaries are the smallest triangle that includes all visible colors (this is much larger than ProPhoto and has far more imaginary colors). The AP1 primaries are rather close to Rec2020, but the gamut is just slightly larger. Neither is well supported for photography and you should avoid them unless you need them for working with stills in your video.

You should avoid converting working images to a printer profile (you can safely do this on an exported copy if desired, just avoid it for the original work). You should also avoid setting Photoshop’s working space to monitor RGB (this will cause Photoshop to strip embedded profiles when you open images, creating significant risk for color problems).

 

Which colorspace should you use?:

Now that you understand the key considerations and the options, how did I arrive at the recommendations above?

  • You should use a wide gamut to preserve color in your layered, working image, as this often helps create better prints and allows your image to benefit from electronic display as monitors continue to improve.
    • There is no benefit to using a small gamut in your working file, even if your monitor won’t show it (colors beyond your display will naturally look great based on the editing you do for the color you can accurately see).
    • ProPhoto is the most practical wide gamut option today as LR / PS make it easy to use and it includes all colors which we might use on a printer or monitor (even well into the future).
    • Rec2020 an the ideal space as it is the ultimate target for HDR and monitors, includes almost all printable color, has a white point and gamma which align well with other smaller colorspaces, allows you to use the same primaries in both SDR and HDR edits, and doesn’t have the waste / imaginary colors of ProPhoto (which in rare cases may cause problems printing). Adobe doesn’t have enough support in LR and Photoshop to make it super easy to use yet outside HDR, but it will be an ideal choice when possible.
  • Browsers support sRGB, P3, and Rec2020 very well – but not other spaces like Adobe RGB and ProPhoto.
    • However, Websites may strip profiles. When that occurs, sRGB is the only safe option as it is assumed when color is not defined. Profiles are removed to save some file space in a JPG. However, newer file formats like AVIF can specify color with only 4 bytes and that should hopefully help end these issues which force us to share sRGB in some cases today.
  • Note: RAW does not have a colorspace and I’ve therefore ignored it (colorspace options in your image do not limit your RAW).

 

Why might you use Rec2020 vs ProPhoto?:

ProPhoto is widely supported for SDR editing and can retain some printable colors which Rec2020 cannot (as shown at the 6:20 mark in the video above). It’s a great space and I do recommend ProPhoto. So why do I have a preference for Rec2020?

  • There is simplicity in using a single colorspace as much as possible.
    • Rec2020 is supported for all RAW conversions, ProPhoto is only an option when not editing in HDR mode.
    • Rec2020 already has good support in browsers and is much more likely to be used correctly when you upload images. We’ll soon be able to export from layered Rec2020 images to the web in Rec2020.
    • Browsers do not support ProPhoto, and this is unlikely to change. Even if they did, they would probably be more prone to having their profile stripped when uploaded (the backend tools used to transcode images don’t often support ProPhoto, and there is no CICP code for the ProPhoto primaries). In other words, images would may be prone to significant desaturation and color error.
  • It may be helpful to avoid the imaginary colors of ProPhoto.
    • In rare cases, wide gamut ProPhoto images may not convert to or soft proof well under some printer profiles.
    • That said, you could convert from ProPhoto to Rec2020 to avoid any issue (it’s just a direct jump from ProPhoto that might be an issue).
  • On the flip side, ProPhoto retains some printable green/cyan values that Rec2020 does not, but the gap is trivial in reality.
    • Monitor’s don’t yet cover Rec2020 and aren’t very likely to exceed it (as it is the ultimate target for HDR / manufacturers).
    • ProPhoto has very little practical advantage for printing. Rec2020 is covers nearly all of Pointer’s gamut.
      • The additional color could theoretically benefit dark gradients with green/cyan/blue. As these colors are beyond Pointer’s gamut (real world reflective color), the only scenario I can think of might involve a gradient from the aurora or artificial lights.
      • As the gap here is in dark values (and those are bright subjects), it would only affect the dark transitions at the edge of the light. I think you’d be hard pressed to find a real photo where this shows a benefit in print.

Rec2020 is the simple option if you have a choice (and covers real color just as well as ProPhoto). ProPhoto is also a great choice.

 

Tips for working with ColorSync Utility on MacOS:

MacOS comes with a very handy ICC profile viewer in ColorSync Utility (there are various 3rd-party options like iccview for Windows, but nothing built into the OS). It’s very helpful for understanding and comparing colorspaces.

  • ColorSync Utility should be found in the Utilities folder in MacOS. Go to the Profiles tab and then the RGB profiles on the left to find various profiles to instead or compare.
  • Right-click the 3D view and choose “Yuv” for a more intuitive representation of the data.
  • Right-click and choose “hold for comparison”, then click on another profile to compare them (if one is much larger than the other, be sure to hold it so you can see both for comparison).
  • Click and drag the 3D view to rotate it.
  • If you hold <option>, you can click and drag up and down to zoom in and out.
  • Advances users might wish to double-click a profile to open it and view its contents in detail (white point, etc).

HDR Photography at BILD in NYC

I’ll be giving a presentation HDR photography at B&H’s 2025 BILD expo held this June 17-18 in New York City. There are roughly 100 world class speakers covering a range of photography topics. You can register for free, and I hope to see you there!

For those of you who aren’t aware that HDR now means something completely different (this is not at all related to the old “HDR” fad many of you remember from about 10-20 years ago). New display technology finally allows us to show our RAW files with truly greater dynamic range, and this is already widely supported. You can see HDR examples on Instagram using the IG app on your smart phone.

For those of you who aren’t already familiar with BILD, this is a relatively new and already massive conference (with I believe over 20,000 attendees expected). It’s sort of the natural replacement for the formerly very popular Photo Plus expo (which as also held in the Javits Center in NYC).

 

[Disclosure: This post contains a affiliate links. The conference is free. If you happen to make an unrelated purchase on B&H after using this link, you may end helping to support the creation of my tutorials at no cost to you.]

Greg Benz Photography